PM & Vänner (ENG)
PM & Vänner
Late summer is here and me and my life
partner Miss E got in the car and steered our way towards Växjö, Småland. We of
course headed for PM & Vänner, a restaurant everyone knows about and has a
relationship to.
We picked up two of our best friends and
strolled down Main street Växjö with our aim set for that sweet and cool street
corner that is PM & Vänner. A huge
lovely porch, unfortunetly only half full due to the declining summer making
people going back to work. As always I have in less than a minute greated all
the staff and gotten a resounding welcome.
The Bible (or ”winelist”) arrives in the
wink of an eye. So here we go again, me going in to anti-social mode in order
to refresh myself with all the wine at PM. I wish I hade the knowledge required
to really appreciate just how good this winelist is, but I will probably get it
in the end anyway. This is the best sommerlier in Sweden who, with the
helpfull guidence of Per Bengtssons and Andreas Larsson, under the
range of years have build up the best wine cellar in the country in a fenomenal
way! This warm evening in late sommer I am as
usually craving Austria and one of my favorites are Fx Pichlers wine from
Wachau. In order not to die of thirst and bore my firends and my love more than
neccesary it hade to be the first bottle of the evening. 2007 Riesling Smaragd
Loibner Oberhauser.
Pichler, this genius of a wine maker,
delivers wine of absolute top range. For all of us with a bit of Riesling
knowledge we know that this farm winery produces cult classic wines year after
year. The colour is straw yellow and it has just passed over in to it’s first
ripe fase. The scent is crispy, alert, flirty and fruity. Really young wines
from Pichler always have a fresh scent and a taste of sun riped young
grapefruit, and the scent is in this as well, although not an obvious one. The
taste is similar to the scent, the wonderfull minerals and the long lasting
taste immediately get us in extas.
In order not to perish from hunger we
ordered a sizeable plate of oysters Fine de Claires with its accessory lemon
and shallot vinaigrette. Perfect meaty and hefty, the saltiness rasps as an
open sea together with the ripeness of the wine. The vinaigrette haswell harmonized
acidity that never takes over but merely compliments the saltiness. A very fine
start to this dinner.
For a more småländsk feel
to the wine we are also served herring on bread. A juicy slice of sour dough
bread with new potato, spiced herring, pickled red onion and carrot. There is a
good taste with the spicy and salty herring, the acidity from the onion, the
carrot and the shy carbohydrates from the potatoes. The wine is like fish to
water together with both the oysters and the herring.
The ladies wanted to
continue with thw white and I didn't say no to that. The next wine was going to
be a bit more modern and greasy, so we went for a bottle of a 2008 Alysian från
Cresta Ridge Vineyard Taurin Block, situated in the Russian River Valley. A
wine easy to like - beautiful gold appearance and a clear core with a grand
scent of fresh exotic fruit. The corn fields stretches out in front of me and
is is a bit like crashing head first in to a bowl of butter flavoured popcorn.
The taste is similar to the scent with good minerals and acidity. And thanks to
the crispness in the wine it doesn’t get to heavy or sprawl. In the end only
one question remains, will it suit well with PM & Vänners steak tartare
with classic garniture?
PM & Vänners steak
tartare fulfilled all my wishes. Perfect texture on the meat and the
temperature on the ox is good. The freedom to choose the amount of garniture to
each bite is exactly as it should be, together with perfectly salted french
fries. This dish complemented the wine perfect. The protein in the meat has a
thing for deconstructing cocky acids and big fatty fruits in the wine, which
lead to the best teamwork ever wine and food combined. That I myself is sucker
for mustard an that mustard never works with wine is for me impenetrable! I am
still though, looking for the best steak tartare.
Our friend Mr. B yearn for
more wine, Miss B had rounded off her wine drinking and had started on more
fruity cocktails – another one of PM & Vänners specialties. The rest of us
though askes the sommelier Johan to, with all our preferences in mind, bring in
a wine to paus with. In comes a bottle of a 2008 Côte du Rhône Domaine A.
Clape. A small estate of 7 hectare, with 5 hectare in central Cornas. The
wine-making is done all in classic manners, open tub fermenting, a long time to
ripe in big barrels, bottled without filtering or clarification. For me
personally this is one of the top 5 producers in Cornas. Deep red colour,
slightly cloudy, and no core – I thank the careful bottling for that. The scent
is ripe of late red summer berries, a light touch of white pepper tickles my
nose, the old oak barrels have works their magic in balancing the wine. A
sterling power to the roof of the mouth with tinnin acid, fruit and a height to
the wine. This bottle I with joy will put up with!
Always finish on top,
something I alway try to do, so one last glass to the table, and that a sweet
one. A 1989 Château Suduriaut, Bordeaux, Sauternes! Wines that are for a lot of
people forgotten. In these times it seems that there is more enjoyment in
drinking suger sweet and fruit driven wines from the new world, but when a
piece of wine history is served the tables often become quite. It is a lot of
feel from the tide of history in there wines. With a gold and ripe thatch like
tone the wine is beautiful just to look at. The scent of saffran, peach and
sultanas is magic. The flavour is divine, young and lovely minerals, it just
gets deeper and squishes my taste buds and I am in a wine experience unlike any
other. It is together with this wine a dinner should end. I can only thank PM
& Vänner for a really nice evening. I hope it won’t will be to long until
next time, but next time I’ll be sitting inside enjoying the Fine Dining.
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